Nicaragua – February 2017

Flying over Nicaragua felt as though we were seeing another planet. The ocean gave way to terrain unlike any I’d seen: land suddenly dropped into deep ravines that looked as though they’d been cut with a straightedge; craters emerged as though they’d been scooped with a melon baller. It was incredible to see the results of volcanic activity and it hinted at what the land once looked like. The entire experience was fascinating and surreal and I hoped the ride would never end.

It did, of course, and once through customs we headed south to Granada–a place I’d only dreamed existed. We’d decided to forgo a stop in Managua in order to see colonial history and spend some time near the water.

I wasn’t sure what to expect: would they be happy to see people from the US? Stand-off-ish? Would we want to emphasize our Swiss heritage and hope to sidestep the whole issue? It turns out, no one cared. The emerging tourist industry was happy to show off the country and the sights and, just like every place we’ve been, the local people were generous, welcoming, and focused on helping us enjoy our visit. So: there we were, on the two-lane highway in a country that for so long had been wracked by revolution, civil war, and general political upheaval in an air conditioned car using wifi. With peace and capitalism, it seems, all things are possible.

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When I was a kid I was vaguely aware of that thing they called “The Iran-Contra Scandal” and although I’m sure it came up when we covered current events, the truth is I was 8 when it started, 10 when it ended, and most of it just passed right by me. Of course we covered it in college more than once, the natural consequence of going to a military academy, but the overarching result from our analysis and discussion (as I perceived it) was Nicaragua would be a place I would never get to see.

Getting to stand in the center of Granada, soaking in the 13th annual International Poetry convention (held here because one of Nicaragua’s most cherished poets hails from this beautiful city), gives me hope that countries currently on my wish list may one day be stamps in my passport. Hey, I’ve been to Burma twice–who knows what’s possible in the future?

I truly believe every person who enjoys travel is a defacto supporter of peace and self-determination because we know the only way we can see the elusive “everything” is if borders are open, commerce is active, and local people see value in welcoming strangers into their home country.

This is my favorite photo of our time in Nicaragua, not just because it’s such a classic Granada experience, but really because sitting there in that carriage I got to savor something I wasn’t sure would happen and the possibility for future adventures.

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It was impossible not to be struck by Nicaragua’s varied terrain. Leaving the ocean and heading south, we came across large ranches where white Brahman cattle roamed on flat land, a 300 year old endeavor begun with the arrival of the Spanish.

Further inland, we came across Lake Nicaragua, home of Ometepe, a “on the list” item I’d had for quite awhile. Composed of two volcanoes that form a dumbbell of an island, Concepción is still active.

Our original plan was to stay for two nights on the south (extinct) half, enjoying the cloud forest that covers it, but we ultimately decided to wait. At 2, our baby isn’t a great hiker (yet!) and carrying him would be a chore. Jeff had to do it a year ago in Bhutan and he wasn’t anxious to repeat *that* experience–now with an extra 15 pounds . . . So we stopped for the view, to put our feet in the water, and to enjoy the moment before going back south and west to relax in Morgan’s Rock.

Read about our visit to Granada here and about our time at Morgan’s Rock here